Making upholstered furniture make look difficult, but with a bit of practice you’ll be turning out your own custom designs with ease!

This two piece outfit is a good place to start:

For the couch or divan, take a board approximately 3/4″ thick, 10″ long, by 4″ wide—vary the measurements according to what you have available. Pad the top and sides of the board lightly with old cotton batting—or a scrap of foam rubber if you have it. A dab of glue here and there will hold the padding securely as you work. Be sure some padding covers the corners of the board so the sharp edges will not cut through the material.

Cut a piece of heavy-textured upholstery material large enough to fit over the top and sides and extend about 1″ underneath the padded board. (You can use plastic material if it is thin enough and pliable enough to finish neatly on this size furniture.) Determine on the cloth exactly where the corners of the sofa will be, then cut away a square beyond each corner of the material, leaving enough for a small seam. With right sides of material facing, sew together from the wrong side the two cut edges at each corner. This miters the corners to fit exactly over the padded board. Pull the sewed-up top snugly over the padded board and fasten the raw edges of the material on the under side with sufficient tacks (carpet or thumb) to hold it securely.

Now, anyone knows expensive furniture is finished in a workmanlike manner—even the portions not in open sight. So if you want (and of course you do) to finish your sofa like a craftsman, cut a piece of cardboard (preferably painted black before attaching) about 1/4″ smaller than the under side of the sofa and fasten the cardboard with a tack in each corner and one on each side, if necessary. This hides the raw edges of the upholstery material and the unpainted bottom of the board.

The legs are four 1 1/4″ long staples, previously painted black. Nail them on the under side at angles to the corners, about 3/4″ from the edges.

You can really let yourself go on what you will use for the back of the sofa. Do you recall seeing the flat plastic bobbinlike holders on which laces and braids are wound at the notion counter? They come in all sorts of sizes and patterns, and are relegated to the trash can when empty. A friendly salesperson will be glad to save you some.

Either the end or the side of the plastic piece can be made to serve as the back of your sofa. Most plastics cut easily with a warm knife, heated over a candle or a stove burner (be careful not to get it too hot). Always use a steel ruler or a firm, true edge of some kind to guide your cutting lines. Or you can break off with a pair of pliers the plastic you do not want to use. For this particular need for a sofa back, if the piece is broken off the rough edges will not be visible.

About 4″ is a good height for this back piece, and after it is cut to correct size to fit the back of the sofa, it should be painted black and dried thoroughly. Then fasten it to the back of the sofa bottom with tacks or small staples with a staple (not the large kind used for legs). Dabs of glue will help hold it in place.

To finish the back of the sofa neatly, cover the rough edges and the tacks or staples used to affix it with a strip of masking or electrical tape.

Another interesting back is made from small flower-pot trellises. One large one might be sufficient; or if they are small, say about 5″ across, use two for a back. Then you could use one trellis for a chair back.

Whatever kind of sofa you make, it is expected you will have a matching chair. Make the chair according to the directions for the sofa, say 4″ wide by 3/4″deep.

You will be able to dream up many kinds of other backs from your box of castaways.

Now let’s proceed to make a sofa and chair with the back and arms also upholstered. A wooden box 11″ or 12″ long and 4″ deep is excellent for this. Pad the box on the bottom (which will be the seat of the sofa) and four sides, then upholster with mitered corners, as explained above. Large headed thumbtacks are practical to fasten the edges of the upholstery on the inside of a wooden box.

The back rest of the sofa is made from a heavy cardboard core that held paper towels, or a mailing tube—2″ or 2 1/4″ in diameter. Cut this length of tube about 3 1/2″ shorter than the length of your sofa. To do this, measure off the length you need and mark in a continuous circle around the core where you want to cut. If a pair of scissors is not satisfactory for cutting, use a razor blade.

Cut your piece of upholstery material 1″ longer than the tube back and wide enough to go around it, plus a small seam allowance. With right sides of material together, stitch your seam allowance the length of the material. Turn right side out and press the seam flat—with some materials, the fingers will be sufficient. Use an iron if necessary. Insert the tube into the sewed-up material. The tube should fit snugly. Work the extra 1/2″ upholstery material on each end down inside the tube and fasten securely with glue. You will want to keep the glue off the rest of the upholstery, and this is easy to do if you work with a damp cloth close at hand.

Cut two circles of cardboard a fraction smaller than the diameter of the tube—these are for the ends, and of course with the cloth inside the tube some of the diameter space has already been used; how much depends on the thickness of the upholstery material. Cut two circles of upholstery material about 1/4″ larger all around than the cardboard circles or discs.

Pad the discs lightly with cotton, cover with the upholstery material, work the edge down smoothly on the underneath side of the disc, and glue well. Or sew the material together with needle and thread back and forth across the wrong side of the disc.

(You will be able to determine how long to let pieces set to dry well-glued or painted-depending on the medium you are using and the materials with which you are working.)

While the discs are drying (if glued), you can affix the larger back tube to the sofa, placing it equidistant from each end. Large-headed thumbtacks (about 5/8″ diameter) are ideal for this. If the place inside the tube is a little difficult to reach with your fingers, use the flat side of a screwdriver or knife to push down the tacks securely.

When the padded discs are ready, insert them into the ends of the tube. If they do not fit perfectly snugly and there is a possibility of their coming out, glue lightly on the edges of the discs (neatly), then insert into tube end.

You can make arms for the sofa (as we shall for the matching chair), but I prefer the modern look without arms on the sofa. Also, think of the work saved!

For the under side of the sofa, cut a piece of cardboard (you might have some black cardboard which won’t need painting) that will fit in the open box just snugly enough so that it needs no fastening, except to be pushed up a little against the upholstery edges. You can even put gliders on your sofa—a thumbtack in each corner.

Your matching chair could be 5″ wide and the same depth as the sofa. It is made in exactly the same manner as the sofa.

The back rest is from the same size core or tube, and you will know how long to cut this piece after you have made the arms.

The arm rests are smaller than the back tube—made from a smaller core (like that from a toilet tissue roll) about 1 1/4″ diameter. The length of the arm rest is the depth of the chair —or a bit shorter if you prefer.
Let the arms extend slightly over the seat bottom sides of the chair, and the distance between the two arm rests will be the length of your larger back rest tube. Fasten this back tube on with tacks (after it has been upholstered, of course, as explained above), then fill in the two ends with the finished discs, as previously described. Fit the arm rests on the chair next, completing the piece with the four small discs in the back and front of each arm tube.

Now, aren’t this sofa and chair handsome enough for any doll to sit on? Indeed they are!

If you use a heavy cardboard box for a sofa or chair (the lid being as deep as the box), you might put the bottom of the box inside the lid and use the double thickness for a stronger piece of furniture. Put dabs of glue here and there to hold the two pieces together. Clamp the edges with clothespins and dry thoroughly before applying upholstery.

The upholstery can be fastened to the inside of the cardboard box with glue instead of tacks, as when a wooden box is used. The core or tube for the back rest can be glued on.

Or, to fasten it more securely, punch holes with a large needle in the back rest and in the seat, then insert pieces of pliable wire through the holes and twist the ends together tightly on the under side. Or use a needle with heavy thread pulled through to the under side and tied.

Put the finishing cardboard for the bottom in place last after the back is attached. Naturally!

Tags : how to make doll chair, how to make doll sofa, how to make upholstered dollhouse furniture

Tables are fairly easy to make, making them a good place to start.

A small square purse mirror can be the top. For the legs, use four 2″ flat-headed screws. Dainty, tapered legs! Paint the screws flat black, all except the tops of the heads, where the glue is applied. (When you paint things, use your own judgment as to whether one or two coats are necessary.) After the legs are thoroughly dry, glue carefully and evenly to the under side of the table, about 1/2 or 3/8″ from the sides, centered diagonally from the corners. As the glue sets sufficiently so that you can turn the table over, put a weight on top (carefully) while it finishes drying. Make two of these alike, and you have a pair of end tables.

Warning: Always let your glue and paint dry thoroughly.

Any kind of mirror—oblong, round, or square—will make a lovely table, and shorter legs can be used to make coffee tables. Try a small mirror in a plastic frame with a handle (perhaps fan shaped). Glue on three legs (painted black or gold), and you have a modern free-form table.

A metal lid with a rim, like one from a cottage cheese container, or a similar shape in plastic, makes an excellent table, especially when finished in the crackly gold. Glue on four 1 1/4″ long Venetian blind pulls for legs, after they have been painted and are thoroughly dry.

Besides screws, table legs can be made from flat-headed bolts (for thicker legs), golf tees, round cork balls, pull-cord handles from light fixtures or Venetian blinds, long, fancy-headed nails used for hanging pictures (for a table made of wood). Large 1 1/4″ staples are the standby for any piece of furniture made of wood. Painted black, these make legs that are modern and stylish!

How about a coffee table from the sliding tray box that held playing cards? If the outside of the box has been flocked (covered with plush) or has a suitable picture or other attractive covering, you can use it this way without any refinishing.

Usually the edges of the card box are gilded or silvered. Let this trim show.

If the outside of the box does need refinishing, cover with a piece of self-adhering plastic. Cut a strip slightly narrower than the length of the card box and long enough to go around the box and make a neat overlap on the under side.

To the ends of the pull-out drawer or tray attach tiny glass, jeweled, or colored buttons or beads for the drawer pulls. These may be left plain if they are decorative, or may be painted gold to match the legs and trim. With a needle, punch two boles in the center, the width apart depending on the size of the bead or button to be attached. Thread a small length of fine wire through the button or bead, pull the ends of the wire through the two holes in the tray and twist tightly on the inside. Cut off excess ends. A small piece of adhesive or masking tape can be affixed over the twisted wire ends for cover-up and to hold them more securely. Finish the other end of the drawer in the same manner.

The little round cork balls (about 5/8″ diameter) designed for pinning sequins and beads into, make fine legs for a low table like this. Paint four of the balls gold, leaving a small spot unpainted where the glue is to be applied. When the paint is thoroughly dry, glue the balls to the under side of the box a short distance from each of the four corners. Or use beads of the same size as the cork balls.

A gold picture frame, about 4″ by 5″, can be turned into another exciting coffee table. In place of the picture under the glass, put a piece of colored paper, cloth, or plastic.

Venetian blind pulls make suitable legs for this table (painted gold).

Another table can be made from a plastic or metal plate for an electric wall switch. The hole in the center (used for the switch) can be utilized as a planter, the planter box glued or taped underneath the opening, Put small clipped-off birthday candles in the two screw holes, or mount the candles on buttons or in belt eyelets and then cover up the holes.

A dining table be made from a two-deck card box with a hinged lift-up lid. Glue the box and lid together, turn the bottom over for the top—the bottom has an extension wider than the sides, making a perfect table top. The length of the screw legs can be suited to the thickness of the box you are using—probably 2″ long screws will be about right.

When you are going to paint the top part of a piece of furniture as well as the legs, you can glue the legs on first.

Then paint the entire piece at once, after the glue is entirely hardened. On the dining table, when the paint is dry, you might like to trim the extended top edge in gold.

A round, metal-surfaced hot pad (asbestos on one side) is ideal for a round dining table or patio set. These pads are finished in plain colors, plaids, and patterns, and no painting or refinishing is necessary. Just add the legs. You pick them this time. (Hint: You might try one large center support.)

Two sizes of large flat brass or wooden knobs (drawer pulls), perhaps 2″ and 2 1/2″ in diameter, make a clever tier table. Glue the smaller size (shank down) to the center top of the larger knob, which becomes the lower tier. Or make three tiers, depending on the size knobs you use. An old chess piece with its “head” chopped off makes a fine bottom support for a tier table.

Any width or length table can be made from just a board (1/2″, 3/4″, or 1″ thick-the thinner looks better) with four 1 1/4″ staples for legs. Nail each staple to the under side at an angle to the corner. Paint board and staples black. Or you can use thick picture-hanging nails—just push the pointed tips into the board.

I suppose the table I like best of all (and so easy to build) is a large coffee table made from an 8″ diameter round cutting board pilfered from the kitchen. Use four 1 1/4″ staples for the legs, nailed at an angle about 1 1/4″ from the outside edges, then paint the whole thing black. What a beauty - and plenty of room to arrange a lovely table lamp, a miniature flower arrangement and magazines!

Tags : make dollhouse tables

Adorable party clothes for your darling and her doll … twin dresses, with exquisite pineapple design yoke.

Child’s Dress Sizes 2 - 4

Materials Needed:

Knit Cro-Sheen crochet thread - Size 2- 3 balls of White or Ecru, or 4 balls of color. Size 4 - 1 ball extra.
Steel crochet hooks No. 7 and No. 2.
1 1/2 yards narrow velvet ribbon.
4 small pearl buttons.

Check Your GAUGE: 2 shells make 1  1/2 inches; 4 rnds of shells make 1  1/2 inches.

Sizes 2 and 4

Starting at neck with No. 7 hook, ch 115 to measure 14 1/2 inches.

1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 3, skip 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, skip 1 ch, sc in next ch. Repeat from * across, ending row with ch 3, skip 2 ch, sc in last ch (45 loops). Turn.

2nd row: Sl st in 1st loop, ch 5, dc in same loop (shell), * ch 1, skip next loop, make 11 d tr in next loop, ch 1, skip 1 loop, in next loop make dc, ch 2 and dc (shell). Repeat from * across. Turn.

3rd row: Sl st in 1st ch-2 sp, ch 5, dc in same sp (shell over shell), * ch 2, skip 1 d tr, (dc in next d tr, ch I) 8 times; dc in next d tr, ch 2, in next ch-2 sp (between dc’s) make dc, ch 2 and dc (shell over shell). Repeat from * across. Turn.

4th row: Sl st in ch-2 sp, shell over shell, * ch 3, sc in next ch-l sp (between dc’s) ; (ch 3, sc in next ch-l sp) 7 times; ch 3, shell over next shell. Repeat from * across. Turn.

5th row: Sl st in sp, shell over shell, * ch 3, skip ch-3 below, sc in next loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) 6 times; ch 3, shell over next shell. Repeat from * across. Turn.

6th row: Sl st in sp, shell over shell, * ch 3, skip ch-5, sc in next loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) 5 times; ch 3, in next shell make 3 dc with ch-l between. Repeat from * across, ending with shell over shell. Turn.

7th row: Sl st in sp, shell over shell, * ch 3, skip ch-3, sc in next loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) 4 times; ch 3, in next ch-l sp make dc, ch 1 and dc; ch 1, in next ch-1 sp make dc, ch 1 and dc. Repeat from * across, ending with shell over shell. Turn.

8th row: Sl st in sp, ch 5, in same sp make dc, ch 1 and dc, * ch 3, skip ch-3, sc in next loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) 3 times; ch 3, in next shell make dc, ch 1 and dc, ch 1, dc in next ch-1, ch 1, in next shell make dc, ch 1 and dc. Repeat from * across, ending with 3 dc with ch 1 between in last shell. Turn.

9th row: Sl st in sp, ch 5, dc in same sp, ch 1, in next shell make dc, ch 1 and dc, * ch 3, skip ch-3, sc in next loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) twice; ch 3, in next shell make dc, ch 1 and dc; (ch 1, dc in next sp) twice; ch 1, in next shell make dc, ch 1 and dc. Repeat from * across. Turn.

10th row: Sl st in sp, ch 5, dc in next sp, ch 1, in next shell make dc, ch 1 and dc; * ch 3, skip ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, shell over next shell, (ch 1, dc in next sp) 3 times; ch 3, shell over next shell. Repeat from * across. Turn.

11th row: Sl st in next sp, ch 5, (dc in next sp, ch 1) twice; shell over next shell, * ch 1, in next ch-3 loop make 4 tr with ch 1 between, ch 1, shell over shell, (ch 1, dc in next sp) 4 times; ch 1, shell over shell. Repeat from * across. Ch 3, turn.

12th row: * Dc in next sp, dc in next st. Repeat from * across (267 sts, count ing turning ch as 1 dc). Join with sl st in top st of 1st ch-3.

Change to No. 2 hook and hereafter work in rnds.

1st rnd: Ch 4, in same place as sl st make 3 dc with ch 1 between, * skip 2 sts, in next st make 4 dc with ch 1 between (shell). Repeat from * around. Join last shell with sl st in 3rd st of 1st ch-4 made (89 shells).

2nd rnd: Sl st to center ch-1 of 1st shell, ch 4, in same place make 3 dc with ch 1 between; * in center ch-1 of next shell make 4 dc with ch 1 between (shell over shell). Repeat from * around. Join. Repeat last rnd until 10 rnds of shells are completed for size 2, or 13 rnds for size 4.

Next rnd: Work across 14 shells, skip next 16 shells (sleeve), work across next 29 shells, skip next 16 shells (other sleeve), work across remaining 14 shells. Join.

Work around over these 57 shells until piece measures 13 inches from bottom of yoke for size 2, 16 inches from bottom of yoke for size 4, or length desired. Join and fasten off.

LEFT SLEEVE . . . Attach thread at left underarm, and with No. 2 hook work 3 rnds of shells same as skirt. Change to No. 7 hook and work sc around, holding in to fit. Work 5 more rnds of sc. Fasten off.

RIGHT SLEEVE . . . Attach thread at right underarm and with No. 2 hook work to correspond with Left Sleeve.

NECK BEADING . . . Attach thread at neck edge at back opening and, with No. 7 hook, ch 4, in 1st sp make 3 dc with ch 1 between, * skip 1 sp, in next sp make 4 dc with ch 1 between. Repeat from * along neck edge, then work sc along both sides of back opening making four ch-4 buttonloops evenly down right edge. Fasten off. Sew on buttons. Run ribbon through beading at neck. Sew Ribbon At Neck Edges To Avoid Choking Hazard

Doll’s Dress

16-18-20-inch Doll

Materials Needed 

Knit Cro-sheen crochet thread 1 ball of White or any color.
Steel crochet hooks No. 7 and No. 2.
1 yard narrow velvet ribbon.

Check Your GAUGE: 2 shells make 1 1/2 inches; 4 rows of shells make 1 1/4 inches.

Starting at neck with No. 7 hook, ch 65 to measure 9 inches.

1st row: 5 tr in 7th ch from hook, * skip 2 ch, in next ch make tr, ch 2 and tr, skip 2 ch, 5 tr in next ch. Repeat from * across, ending with skip 2 ch, tr in last ch. Ch 8, turn.

2nd row: * Holding back last loop of each tr on hook make tr in 5 tr, thread over and draw through all loops on hook (cluster), ch 9, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 8. Repeat from * across, ending with cluster, ch 2, tr in top st of turning ch. Ch 2, turn.

3rd row: 3 h dc in ch-2 sp, make 5 h dc in each loop and 3 h dc in last sp. Change to No. 2 hook, ch 4, turn.

4th row: Work only in the back half of dc’s, skip 1st st, (in next st make 3 dc with ch-1 between-shell made-skip 2 sts) 11 times; (shell in next st, skip 1 st) 18 times; (shell in next st, skip 2 sts) 11 times; shell in next st, skip 1 st, dc in next st (41 shells), ch 4, turn.

5th row: Shell in center ch-1 of each shell across. Ch 4, turn.

Repeat 5th row until there are 6 rows of shells completed in all.

Next row: Work across 7 shells, skip next 7 shells (sleeve), work across next 13 shells, skip next 7 shells (other sleeve), work across remaining 7 shells. Work straight over these 27 shells until piece measures 6 inches from bottom of yoke or length desired. Fasten off.

LEFT SLEEVE . . . Attach thread at left underarm and with No. 2 hook work 2 rows of shells same as skirt. Change to No. 7 hook and work sc around, holding in to fit. Work 2 more rows of sc. Fasten off. Sew sleeve seam.

RIGHT SLEEVE . . . Attach thread and work to correspond with Left Sleeve.

Sew back edges of skirt together for 4 inches starting at bottom. Work a row of sc along back opening. Then work beading along opposite side of foundation ch as follows: Ch 2, h dc in next ch, * ch 2, 2 h dc in base of 5-tr group, ch 2, 2 h dc in base of 2-tr group. Repeat from * across. Fasten off. Run ribbon through beading at neck.

Tags : free crochet child and doll dress pattern, free matching girl and doll dress pattern

Learn How To Do Spool Knitting - see the first post in this series

Doll’s Carriage Robe

This robe is ten inches wide and eighteen inches long, and is made of four pieces of flat web, each piece three yards long. Any number of pieces of either round or flat web may be used, and the robe made wider and longer if desired.

Measure fifteen inches of web and turn it. Begin sewing from this, turn down to the end of the fifteen inches and again turn, bringing the web around over the end. Care must be taken while turning to keep the ends perfectly flat.

When the three yards are used begin the other parts in the same way. Make four or any desired number of parts, and sew them together, alternating the colors. Put a tassel made of the same material on the rounded end of each part.

If round web is used it will require more for each part, for the round is not as wide as the flat web.

Tags : free spool knitting pattern, spool knit doll blanket pattern, spool knit doll carriage robe pattern

Learn How To Do Spool Knitting - see the first post in this series

Wristlets

These are made of round or flat web. Each wristlet requires one and one-half yards.

Measure five inches, the length of the wristlet, and turn. Start sewing from this point and sew to the end of the five inches and turn again.

Continue until enough rows are sewed to make the wristlet the desired width, which in this model is two and one-half inches.

 

Shoulder Shawl

This may be made of round or flat web, and of any desired size. If the shawl is to be thirty-six inches long, clip the web into pieces of this length and sew them together until the shawl is of the desired width, or the web may simply be turned at the end of each row, then proceed with the sewing.

The fringe for the ends is made by cutting the yarn into lengths twice as long as the desired length of the fringe—that is, if the fringe is to be five inches long, cut the yarn into pieces ten inches long.

Fold each ten-inch piece in two, slip the folded end through a stitch in the end of the shawl and draw the two ends of the piece through the loop thus formed and pull tight.

Tags : free spool knitting patterns, spool knit shawl pattern, spool knit wristlet pattern